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How do I know when my battery is failing? Here are some warning signals that may indicate a problem with your battery or your charging system: |
| 1) | When starting, your motor turns over slowly or in an interrupted manner. |
| 2) | Your battery seems to lose power quickly in cold weather. |
| 3) | Your headlights dim when you are idling. |
| 4) | The battery/charging system warning light on your instrument panel stays on for extended periods after the engine is running. |
| To determine if the battery is failing, take it
to a qualified mechanic as soon as possible or try testing your
battery. |
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Why did my battery fail early? According to recent independent laboratory tests, no brand of battery lasts longer than Interstate Batteries. Batteries fail prematurely because of a variety of situations, including poor battery maintenance, hot weather, hot engine temperatures and a failing alternator. Sometimes a defect in the battery may cause it to fail early, and that's why Interstate Batteries offers a warranty. |
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My battery won't
take or hold a charge. A battery may not accept a charge for several reasons.
Your battery may have a bad cell or an internal short and therefore be irreparable. Or it
could be so severely discharged that it will require a professional caliber charger to
charge it. Many home chargers have minimum voltages that must be present in the battery
before the charger will switch on. Normally these low voltages are well below those
exhibited by a battery that appears to be "dead." Often however, the battery is not given the adequate amount of time to accept a charge. One of the best tips regarding battery charging is to observe the charger's ammeter swing needle (available on some chargers) during the charging procedure. After the charger is connected to the battery and is on, the needle should deflect to a high amperage level if the battery is partially discharged. If the battery is severely discharged, the needle only deflects slightly away from zero. Continue to observe the needle in either situation. On a normally discharged battery only, the needle will start to taper in amperage back toward zero, usually in less than five minutes. This reduction in amperage typically indicates the battery is accepting a charge. On a severely discharged battery, the needle will start off very low then rise. This rise of the needle is a preliminary indication the battery is accepting a charge. Remember, chargers vary in capability and always observe safety procedures recommended by the charger manufacturer. Always determine the battery's state of charge before and after recharging. The most accurate method for a battery with removable vent caps is the specific gravity test, using a hydrometer. If the battery will not hold a charge adequately, contact the nearest Interstate dealer. |
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My battery light comes on when I'm driving, and the voltage jumps back and forth from high to low. This would typically indicate a charging system or cable connection problem. Take your vehicle to a local Interstate dealer to have the charging system, cables, connections and battery tested. This will help determine what type of problem you are having. |
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My second
battery failed in less than a month. The possibility of getting two defective
batteries in a row is remote. If the battery is undamaged and it recharges and performs
well on a load test, then something else is wrong. Make sure
that:
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My battery keeps failing even though I seldom drive the car. Like people, batteries need regular exercise to remain healthy. Exercise to a battery is getting recharged so it can remain healthy. Batteries will self discharge while sitting unused. Also, every vehicle made since the late 1970s will have some key-off electrical drain, from the computer memories, which may discharge the battery below a no-start condition within a few days to two weeks. Connect a small charger to the battery occasionally. If this problem continues to occur, have the vehicle tested by an Interstate dealer for excessive key-off electrical drain. |
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My battery
quickly gets corrosion build-up on the terminals. Although all batteries contain highly
corrosive sulfuric acid, corrosion should not occur under normal conditions without
spillage or one of the following: Overfilling: Add distilled water to the electrolyte of a fully charged battery if it is lower than 1/8" to 1/4" below the vent well at a full charge. If the battery requires charging, only add water if the electrolyte is at or below the plates. Overcharging/overheating: Overcharging by the alternator or normal charging at an extreme battery temperature can result in excessive gassing of the battery, which may produce increased corrosion. Inadequate metal contact: When current passes through poor or loose electrical connections, a form of corrosion may form. Metallic exposure: When an electrical wire is exposed to salt particles in the air, corrosion will eventually occur. Remember to keep connections clean, tight and sealed by protectorates. Do not overfill the battery or allow it to become overcharged or overheated. If battery corrosion persists, check with your local electrical professional. |
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My battery starts the car sometimes but not at others times. This is probably not a battery problem. If the problem occurs only after the vehicle sits overnight or for a day or more before starting, the problem is often a low state of charge. If the battery starts the vehicle once the vehicle has been started recently, test your battery to determine its state of charge. Also, make sure that the alternator is adequately charging and that all the connections are good. If problem continues, see your local Interstate battery dealer. |